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Progress in surfing: The importance of knowledge in learning

    Surfing is one of the most difficult sports in the world.

    Learn to surf it is not done from one day to the next. Surfing being one of the most difficult sports in the world, you will need years of experience to get to flow with the waves as if it were something natural. And even more so if you start as an adult...

    But don’t lose faith, it’s difficult, sure, but it’s possible.

    If you do things in order, with awareness and with the right tools, you will see that your progression will be much more effective and rewarding. There's no use running, it would make you get into bad habits that would slow down your progress, so relax!

    You have to be aware that learning to surf is not just about learning to do your “take off” (get up) on top of his surfboard and that's it. No. It encompasses much more than that. To begin with, the medium in which you evolve is constantly moving. That alone complicates learning a lot. there are not two surf spots (place where surfing is practiced), not two equal waves in the world. So before you have the opportunity to get up on a wave, you will have to get to catch that wave... That implies learning to read the sea, guess how the waves are going to behave to know how to get to where they break, position yourself, position yourself well and do what has to be done at the right time and place. Besides, you won't be alone in the water, it's like on the road, there are rules to respect if you want to be able to surf safely.

    Essential knowledge to progress in surfing

    Learning to surf, you have understood, is broad and complex. To reach this goal of flowing on top of the waves, you have to acquire a lot of knowledge in parallel:

    • Knowledge about the sea (reading of the sea and waves) : how the waves behave, what are the internal and external parameters that will define the way these waves break, read the surf forecasts to know what the state of the sea will be and thus be able to define where and when to go surfing, learn to see the currents to avoid them or on the contrary use them to your advantage, …
    • Knowledge about surf equipment : what are the parameters that affect the behavior of a surfboard in the water, how to choose the right board for your level, surf conditions, your morphology, the types of surfboards, how to choose your leash, his wax (surf wax), his suit…
    • Knowledge of surf technique : I mean the famous “take off”, but also everything that involves the practical part of surfing, whether it is how to position yourself on the surfboard, how to paddle more efficiently, how to pass the waves to return to the line up How to do basic maneuvers...
    • Knowledge about surfing safety : whether it is for your safety or that of others, you have to learn the surfing code on the one hand, which includes the official rules, etiquette, and on the other hand to control your board in all circumstances, to recognize if the conditions are for your level or not, ...

    This knowledge is the basis of surfing. They will allow you to understand what is happening around you, to know what you have to do at all times, and in complete safety for yourself as well as for others.

    How to acquire them?

    Most of that knowledge can and SHOULD be worked out of the water. Learn the theory with a relaxed mind to be able to recognize things and react better once in full action. You don't forget that once in the water there are so many things to think about at the same time that most of them will forget. You don't have to count only in time past the water to progress, you can learn, work, even automate technical gestures out of the water.

    Through Nalu Souls, this is exactly what I wanted to contribute: make knowledge available from wherever, whenever, to be able to work on surfing in wasted time, even if it is far from the sea, in order to get the most out of the surf sessions. , and thus progress more effectively.

    The importance of surf lessons

    Be careful, at no time do I intend to teach surfing online... No. I give essential tools for learning, but it is not a complete surf course. I can't see you surf, I can't appreciate the flaws and the qualities…. In fact, I recommend you take surf lessons from time to time to check your technique, your evolution, your goals... But also give yourself more confidence, improve your reading of the sea live, have live coaching... You have to go to a school qualified, with qualified instructors and adequate material. Preferably take a private or semi-private class to have the full attention of the instructor and make this privileged moment as effective as possible.

    If you are just starting to surf, taking some classes to get started is ESSENTIAL…. First for a security issue. Safety in the water: be guided, do not go anywhere to avoid currents, bad sea conditions and not catch anything, there are bad, dangerous waves that must be avoided... Safety with equipment: use suitable surfboards such as softboards (foam boards, or "corchopan" as we call them in Spain) and learn to handle them correctly under supervision. Second for a matter of efficiency in the technique. The first classes are always intense due to the amount of information received and it is impossible to control everything at once. From the beginning, no movement is natural for the body. It is better to do the learning of the basic mechanics under supervision to receive corrections live. Thus, avoid taking bad habits that would slow down the progression...

    Obviously if you find out a minimum about the basic skills before starting the classes, through Nalu Souls for example, you will be more prepared, your classes will be more effective and you will progress with your surfing.

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